HISTORY Of surfboards
Ancient Hawaiian Surfboards
Surfboards have come a long way, many significant people and discoveries or materials. Over the years there have been several advancements made to surfing and boards, machinery and materials.
In the very early days, surfing was not only a recreational activity but also a training exercise for chiefs in resolving conflicts. During this era, there were only two significant types of boards. One called the 'Olo' this specific board was rode by chiefs and nobleman, the 'Alaia' was rode by commoners. Both crafted from a wood called 'williwilli' from 'ula and koa' trees. These boards were the first surfboard ranging from 10-16 feet in length.
In the Late 18th century with the arrival of Captain Cook, surfboard design changed dramatically.
George Douglas Freeth Jr, born 1883 in Oahu, Hawaii became known as the first white person to become an expert at surfing. He was known for experimenting in surfboard design and decided to make a drastic change. He cut the original 16 foot boards down to 6 foot, This allowed for the board to be maneuvered more easily and was lighter to carry. He then introduced his new idea to California, and then further went on to become a professional surfer in the United States.
Tom Blake
The next major breakthrough in surfboard production was Tom Blake's development of the 'hollow board'. Even today he is one of the most influential and famous names in surfing history. He transformed a local Hawaiian recreational activity into a globally popular sport, and he essentially introduced the art of surfing and surfboard production to the world.
His board was constructed from red wood, the main feature that Blake changed in the design was that this board was hollow, it was said to be significantly lighter, and easier to maneuver for beginners. The final board was 15 foot tall and weighed 45kg. At first his new design stirred controversy with the locals, as they joked, calling it a 'cigar board' until they noticed its performance benefits and became one of most important advancements in surfing history. In 1930, it became the first mass produced surfboard in the world. Tom Blake also introduced another major element used in surfboards today: fins. The fins allowed for much easier maneuvering and speed.
In 1934, inspired by Tom Blake's design, a group of local surfers in Hawaii experimented with the tail of the board, cutting, shaping and filling down. This allowed for better maneuverability in the surf. This board was called the 'Hot Curl' because the tail of the board allowed the surfer to maneuver into the curve of wave.
In 1932 materials from South America such as redwood, balsa wood and plywood became common materials for surfboard blanks. These new materials weighed around 18kg, compared to 45kg. Redwood boards became popular because they were significantly lighter and durable, this new board had many performance benefits making it a very popular surfboard.
When plastic and Polystyrene was introduced:
After the end of WWII another major advancement was introduced into the surfboard shaping world. WWII allowed access to new and different materials such as fibreglass, plastic and styrofoam. In 1946 the first styrofoam surfboard was built by Pete Peterson. This was a hollow plastic mold, with a redwood stringer fixed with fibreglass tape.
Therefore it was only after WWII that shapers begun to introduce waste, plastic and chemicals into the production of their boards. The surfboard and the surfboard industry was evolving.